Gay Life In Bali and Tips for gay traveller
General Information
The Balinese are Hindu/animist, unlike the rest of predominantly Muslim Indonesia. They are self-assured, genuinely friendly, curious, and always make time to chat. Some of your most memorable experiences will come from warm interaction with local folk. Everyone here seems to be an artist of some kind and daily offerings and rituals are a way of life. While men and women no longer wander about in innocent nakedness, you will certainly encounter unselfconsciousness at the morning and evening bathing hours at rivers, pools, and public baths (Balinese become invisible when they slip out of their sarong).
While Bali may be one of the most tolerant and gay-friendly destinations on the planet, you will not find much in the way of open gay lifestyle except in the touristic Kuta/Legian area. Open gays you encounter will usually come from neighboring islands. Many Balinese mythical figures celebrated in music and dance have androgynous characteristics. That, together with the high visibility of many gay visitors to the island and a quiet acceptance among the indigenous communities, mean that most Balinese are aware of homosexuality. However, for Balinese, marriage and the union of opposite genders is a requirement for their full participation in village life. That said, homosexuality is certainly not a serious matter or one requiring a moral judgement. Interestingly, murals in The Hall of Justice in the Taman Gili, which luridly depict the punishments of hell, represent a wide range of sins from incest and bestiality to gossiping and farting -- but no proscriptions against homosexuality are recorded.
Not surprisingly, Bali has been a famous haven for homosexuals, and a number of its renowned foreign residents lead comfortable, open lives here. Respected artists like Rudolf Bonnet, Donald Friend and, most famously, Walter Spies, all contributed to the thriving cultural synthesis that is Bali today. The spectacular kecak monkey chant, perceived by millions of tourists as a glimpse back in time to the "real" Bali, was actually re-choreographed by Spies, who combined several languishing performance traditions, increased the number of male performers, stripped them to loincloths, and set them in a circle around a central fire light.
On the topic of sex, it needs to be said that the Balinese are not especially given to going out and having a few drinks at a bar and getting picked up. These are people who believe you can go into full-fledged demonic possession at the sound of a gong, and being drunk is not a happy feeling for them. On the other hand, they are not shy about physical contact between people of the same gender. Friendly encounters may lead to a chance to get better acquainted, but you are likely to be disappointed if you arrive with the expectation of finding a holiday boyfriend. Knowing a little Indonesian, and the gentle art of teasing and flirting, will go a long way towards making friends.
Tips for Gay Traveller
As in many big Asian capitals, there is a vibrant gay scene. Although the local Balinese gays will be in the closet in their village, in thriving and cosmopolitan Kuta, in particular Seminyak, they are all very open, easy going and cruisy. Young gays from all over Indonesia come and settle down in Kuta to live a normal gay life, with some guys operating as "moneyboys". It is not institutionalized commercial sex, but rather freelancers, students and unemployed young gays, who may expect anything between having a good time, a dinner, a present and why not, some cash. Gay life is tolerated all over Bali and it becomes very visible and obvious in Kuta/Seminyak.
The place to hang out during the day is the "gay beach" or Petitenget beach, on the northern end of Kuta beach. Once a discreet nude gay beach, nudity is no longer authorized, but it has remained gay as ever and the bushed area behind the beach can be cruisy. There is a large open-air bar and restaurant, there are long chairs for rent and there is even a massage parlour on the premises. Cruisy in the late afternoons, although on weekends many local families come down to that beach.
All the streets and shops of Kuta can be cruisy, in particular the Matahari Departement Store in Central Kuta. The "beach boys" on main Kuta beach are gorgeous guys, but not gay and looking for single lady tourists and their money.
In the late afternoons, it is very common for men, young and old, to take a bath in the many rivers. Not gay (although some of course are), but pleasant and friendly guys, who may invite you to join them for a fresh water bath in the buff, chatting, playing and swimming. A unique experience. But don't join them unless invited and refrain from taking pictures.
The early evenigs are quiet and besides shopping and having dinner, there isn't much to do, unless you go for a well deserved and relaxing massage in one of the many spas, some gay (G-spa, M Spa). Another experience at this time of the day is the "Oriental Cabaret Show", a colourful and spectacular show, mainly by transvestite performers. A must for every gay, although the public is very mixed.
The first 'real gay' event of the night is at Hulu's cafe in Legian, a sleezy and very funny transvestite show, which starts around 11 pm and lasts for about one hour. The first place for pick-up!
From there, people move after midnight to either the nearby and more quiet "Sugar", a high-class gay bar, situated on Jalan Legian, with a weekly program of shows and activities, although most people move to Jalan Dhyana Pura, a street of bars and restaurants with a very mixed gay and straight crowd. Two bars caters almost exclusively to gays, Q-bar (100% gay) and the opposite Kudo's, which started as a gay bar which turned a bit mixed (with a large majority of gays). Both are very crowded and overcrowded on the weekends, when the customers spill over on the road. Daily drag shows and open until early in the morning. A large funky interior, with its long bar, dance floor, 6 hi-definition video screens and state-of-the-art disco in Kudos and a bit more quiet, but cruisy Q-bar.
And if this wasn't enough for you, move on to Double Six after 2 AM, located on the beach and within walking distance. A very big and popular mega-disco, with a very distinct gay area, about a quarter of the dance floor is unofficially "reserved" for gays. Your night can then end with a sunrise cruisy walk on the beach just in front, while the rest of Kuta wakes up.
Most if not all hotels in this area are very gay-friendly, but some discretion is advised, especially in front of other guests and their kids. However, there are also a few "gay" villas, exclusively for gay men, some being clothing-optional, "Laki Uma Villa" being the most famous and popular one. These places offer a very relaxed and openly gay atmosphere, all day long, but are very discreet seen from the outside. The Laki Uma guys will be happy to take you to any of the popular gay spots.
The only other gay and str8-friendly clothing-optional place in Bali (and the rest of Indonesia) is "Bali au Naturel", a beach resort in Northern Bali, far away from the hustle and bustle of vibrant and cosmopolitan Kuta.


