Monday, August 15, 2005

Gay Life In Bali and Tips for gay traveller

General Information
The Balinese are Hindu/animist, unlike the rest of predominantly Muslim Indonesia. They are self-assured, genuinely friendly, curious, and always make time to chat. Some of your most memorable experiences will come from warm interaction with local folk. Everyone here seems to be an artist of some kind and daily offerings and rituals are a way of life. While men and women no longer wander about in innocent nakedness, you will certainly encounter unselfconsciousness at the morning and evening bathing hours at rivers, pools, and public baths (Balinese become invisible when they slip out of their sarong).

While Bali may be one of the most tolerant and gay-friendly destinations on the planet, you will not find much in the way of open gay lifestyle except in the touristic Kuta/Legian area. Open gays you encounter will usually come from neighboring islands. Many Balinese mythical figures celebrated in music and dance have androgynous characteristics. That, together with the high visibility of many gay visitors to the island and a quiet acceptance among the indigenous communities, mean that most Balinese are aware of homosexuality. However, for Balinese, marriage and the union of opposite genders is a requirement for their full participation in village life. That said, homosexuality is certainly not a serious matter or one requiring a moral judgement. Interestingly, murals in The Hall of Justice in the Taman Gili, which luridly depict the punishments of hell, represent a wide range of sins from incest and bestiality to gossiping and farting -- but no proscriptions against homosexuality are recorded.

Not surprisingly, Bali has been a famous haven for homosexuals, and a number of its renowned foreign residents lead comfortable, open lives here. Respected artists like Rudolf Bonnet, Donald Friend and, most famously, Walter Spies, all contributed to the thriving cultural synthesis that is Bali today. The spectacular kecak monkey chant, perceived by millions of tourists as a glimpse back in time to the "real" Bali, was actually re-choreographed by Spies, who combined several languishing performance traditions, increased the number of male performers, stripped them to loincloths, and set them in a circle around a central fire light.

On the topic of sex, it needs to be said that the Balinese are not especially given to going out and having a few drinks at a bar and getting picked up. These are people who believe you can go into full-fledged demonic possession at the sound of a gong, and being drunk is not a happy feeling for them. On the other hand, they are not shy about physical contact between people of the same gender. Friendly encounters may lead to a chance to get better acquainted, but you are likely to be disappointed if you arrive with the expectation of finding a holiday boyfriend. Knowing a little Indonesian, and the gentle art of teasing and flirting, will go a long way towards making friends.

Tips for Gay Traveller

As in many big Asian capitals, there is a vibrant gay scene. Although the local Balinese gays will be in the closet in their village, in thriving and cosmopolitan Kuta, in particular Seminyak, they are all very open, easy going and cruisy. Young gays from all over Indonesia come and settle down in Kuta to live a normal gay life, with some guys operating as "moneyboys". It is not institutionalized commercial sex, but rather freelancers, students and unemployed young gays, who may expect anything between having a good time, a dinner, a present and why not, some cash. Gay life is tolerated all over Bali and it becomes very visible and obvious in Kuta/Seminyak.

The place to hang out during the day is the "gay beach" or Petitenget beach, on the northern end of Kuta beach. Once a discreet nude gay beach, nudity is no longer authorized, but it has remained gay as ever and the bushed area behind the beach can be cruisy. There is a large open-air bar and restaurant, there are long chairs for rent and there is even a massage parlour on the premises. Cruisy in the late afternoons, although on weekends many local families come down to that beach.

All the streets and shops of Kuta can be cruisy, in particular the Matahari Departement Store in Central Kuta. The "beach boys" on main Kuta beach are gorgeous guys, but not gay and looking for single lady tourists and their money.

In the late afternoons, it is very common for men, young and old, to take a bath in the many rivers. Not gay (although some of course are), but pleasant and friendly guys, who may invite you to join them for a fresh water bath in the buff, chatting, playing and swimming. A unique experience. But don't join them unless invited and refrain from taking pictures.

The early evenigs are quiet and besides shopping and having dinner, there isn't much to do, unless you go for a well deserved and relaxing massage in one of the many spas, some gay (G-spa, M Spa). Another experience at this time of the day is the "Oriental Cabaret Show", a colourful and spectacular show, mainly by transvestite performers. A must for every gay, although the public is very mixed.

The first 'real gay' event of the night is at Hulu's cafe in Legian, a sleezy and very funny transvestite show, which starts around 11 pm and lasts for about one hour. The first place for pick-up!

From there, people move after midnight to either the nearby and more quiet "Sugar", a high-class gay bar, situated on Jalan Legian, with a weekly program of shows and activities, although most people move to Jalan Dhyana Pura, a street of bars and restaurants with a very mixed gay and straight crowd. Two bars caters almost exclusively to gays, Q-bar (100% gay) and the opposite Kudo's, which started as a gay bar which turned a bit mixed (with a large majority of gays). Both are very crowded and overcrowded on the weekends, when the customers spill over on the road. Daily drag shows and open until early in the morning. A large funky interior, with its long bar, dance floor, 6 hi-definition video screens and state-of-the-art disco in Kudos and a bit more quiet, but cruisy Q-bar.

And if this wasn't enough for you, move on to Double Six after 2 AM, located on the beach and within walking distance. A very big and popular mega-disco, with a very distinct gay area, about a quarter of the dance floor is unofficially "reserved" for gays. Your night can then end with a sunrise cruisy walk on the beach just in front, while the rest of Kuta wakes up.

Most if not all hotels in this area are very gay-friendly, but some discretion is advised, especially in front of other guests and their kids. However, there are also a few "gay" villas, exclusively for gay men, some being clothing-optional, "Laki Uma Villa" being the most famous and popular one. These places offer a very relaxed and openly gay atmosphere, all day long, but are very discreet seen from the outside. The Laki Uma guys will be happy to take you to any of the popular gay spots.

The only other gay and str8-friendly clothing-optional place in Bali (and the rest of Indonesia) is "Bali au Naturel", a beach resort in Northern Bali, far away from the hustle and bustle of vibrant and cosmopolitan Kuta.



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www.unseenbali.com

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Sunday, August 14, 2005

Travel Tips

Passports and Visas

The government of Indonesia simplified the procedure for obtaning a visa for foreign travelers wishing to visit Bali.

The government had issued a new visa policy as follows:
1.
Free Short Term Visa are valid for 11 countries and territories, namely:

Brunei Darussalam Malaysia Singapore
Chile Morocco Thailand
Hong Kong Philippines Vietnam
Macao Peru

A visa for nationals from these countries is delivered upon arrival free-of-charge.
2.
Visa On Arrival is valid for 21 countries, namely:
Argentina
France
New Zealand
Taiwan
Australia Germany Norway United Arab Emirates
Brazil Great Britain Poland
Canada Hungary South Africa United States of America
Denmark Italy South Korea
Finland Japan Switzerland


Visa on arrival can be obtained for the payment of:
- US$ 10 for a 3 days visa
- US$ 25 for a 30 days visa

3.
All other nationalities need to obtain a visa from the Indonesian Embassy in their country of permanent residence.
All visas are for a maximum stay of 30 days and are not extendable or renewable and non-convertible to any kind of other stay permit.

Check your visa requirements clicwide click here

Currency

The Rupiah. Notes 100, 500, 1,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, 50,000, 100,000. Coins 25, 50, 100, 500, 1000.
Currency Converter click here

Time Zone

GMT + 8 hours.

Accommodation

As you can imagine there's an enormous variety of accommodation available in Bali. It varies from magnificent five star resorts to simple jungle cabins, depending on the location and your holiday budget.

Credit Cards

Major credit cards are acceptable in most hotels along with American dollar traveler's cheques.

Electricity

Most hotels use 220 volts, 50 cycles and a round, two-pronged slim plug. Bathroom shaver plugs usually have a transformer switch. We suggest taking an adaptor for your appliance.

Getting Around

You will find a range of chauffeur driven limousines, self-drive cars, taxis and hotel courtesy cars. Many taxis are not metered so it's wise to negotiate the fare before you climb aboard. Bemos are a unique form of transport. They are a mini-van masquerading as a communal bus. You simply hail the driver and negotiate the fare that suits you both. Motorcycles can also be hired in many places but special care should be exercised at all times as road and traffic conditions can be somewhat hazardous in certain locations. Traveling around Bali is made all the easier because everywhere you go you'll find friendly people only to happy to give you advice and directions on how to get where you want to go.

Driver's License

If you wish to hire a car you must be over 18 years of age and posses an International Driver's License or license from ASEAN countries.

Clothing

Light, airy, casual clothes are the most practical and you'll find natural fibers like cotton or linen are the most comfortable in Bali's often humid conditions. Waist sashes should be worn when visiting temples.


Useful Numbers

  • Taxis
    • Taksi Praja : 289191, 289090
    • Taksi Bali : 701111
  • Medical
    • AEA International (Medical Evac) Jl. Hayam Wuruk 40, Denpasar. Tel : 228996
    • Medical Centre Jl Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X Denpasar. Tel : 761263
    • Rumah Sakit Dharma Husada (Hospital) Jl. Panglima Sudirman No.50, Denpasar. Tel : 227560
    • Kuta Clinic : Jl. Raya Kuta No.100X, Kuta. Tel : 753268
    • Nusa Dua Clinic : Jl. Pramata No. 81A, Nusa Dua. Tel : 771324
    • Rumah Sakit Umum Sanglah (Hospital) : Jl. Diponegoro, Denpasar. Tel : 227911
  • Emergency Numbers
    • Ambulance : 118
    • Fire : 113
    • Police : 110
    • Search & Rescue : 51111
    • Red Cross : 26465
  • Operator Assisted Calls
    • Within Indonesia : 100
    • International : 101
  • Directory Information
    • Bali : 147

Northern bali (Unspoiled Bali)


Once you reach the coastal area, you are in the Buleleng Regency which sprawls over the full lenght of Bali's North Coast. It's hot, dry and fringed with black sand beaches and coconut palms. Its capital is Singaraja, which in 1882 became the Dutch capital of Bali and the Eastern Islands (Nusa Tenggara). It's right on the beach and has since its early days been a bustling center of commerce. It is Bali's second largest city and it's cleaner, less polluted, less congested and more attractive and relaxing than Denpasar or Kuta. The influence of non-Balinese - Chinese, Javanese, Malays, Indians, Arabs and Dutch - is more noticeable in Singaraja than in other parts of Bali, as the city has been a marketplace for the Java sea trade for over a thousand years. This has resulted in many imposing buildings, many of European design, especially in the densely packed merchant's quarter south of the harbor. A large Chinese quarter in the eastern part of town houses priceless vases and tapestries. And don't miss the Hindu temple Pura Dalem, with its incredible phantasmagoric reliefs depicting Balinese heaven and hell and the dire consequences of earthly sins: culprits with their tongues pulled out, arms sawed off, boiled, beaten and stabbed. Enjoy beautiful sunsets over the old harbor area, walk through narrow streets and along the seawall an imagine the days when this was once of the Dutch East Indies' busiest ports. A bit to the south is Gitgit waterfall, Bali's highest waterfall, a must for nature lovers.

To the west is Lovina, a more budget-oriented tourist town. Rural, with relaxing scenic beaches, ideal for swimming and diving, but not surfing. Lovina is not known as a cultural place, but there are sometimes performances at the tourist hotels. The coastline east of Singaraja is less touristic, more traditional and less developed in terms of tourism, but with a number of secluded and exclusive villa resorts along the beach. Unlike the south of Bali, it is home to some of the more traditional temples, high waterfalls, steep mountains and the most rewarding place to take photographs of Bali's magical scenery. Just east of Singaraja is Air Sanih, an idyllic spot few tourists know about: it is fresh water springs surrounded by a large pool, just meters away from the splash of the surf. Further towards the east is the "Art Zoo", the main workshop of the well-know painter Symon, specializing in colourful nude paintings and sculptures, with a strong homo-erotic sense.

More to the East, at the junction to Kintamani, is the renowned village of Tejakula with its ancient temple, Pura Ponjok Batu, surrounded by fresh water springs. There are also communal open-air baths here in front of a temple. From there you can walk uphill to a very high, idyllic and little known waterfall, with abundant water, even during the dry season. An ideal place for a picnic and a waterfall-massage. The hike takes you through small rural communities, orchards - mainly rambutan - and dense jungle. This mountainous region is one of the few truly undiscovered regions of Bali. Enjoy scenic village life on a bicycle tour or go on an early morning canoe trip with a local fisherman and you may find yourself surrounded by dolphins, while getting a superb view of the first sunrays on Mount Agung against the background of the island of Lombok.

Further to the East is the excellent diving site of Tulamben, unaffected by tourism, with breathtaking slopes of rice terraces alternating with massive black solid lava rivers, the ravages of Mount Agung's eruption in 1963.

The North of Bali should not be explored in single day trip from Kuta, Nusa Dua or Ubud, but to fully enjoy its richness, its unspoilt and quiet beaches and the ocean, its unique traditional Balinese culture, character and charm, to explore its wealthy and sumptuous nature and meet its friendly people, not affected by mass-tourism, a few days is highly recommended.

Unseenbali offers one resort, which lies right in the middle of it all, "Bali au Naturel" a luxurious clothing-optional beach resort set in a spacious tropical garden, surrounded by jungle with many of the above sites nearby. Tours can be organized departing from this resort, some free-of-charge (trips to Wijaya Foundation, Art Zoo, Tejakula, the waterfall and boat trips).

Bali the jewel of Indonesia

MALAY Archipelago lies directly on the volcanic belt of the world. Like the backbone of some restless, formidable antediluvian monster, more than three hundred volcanoes rise from The sea in a great chain of islands - perhaps all that remains of A continent broken up in prehistoric cataclysms - forming a continuous land bridge that links Asia with Australia. Because of its peculiar and fantastic nature, its complex variety of peoples, and its fabulous richness, the archipelago is one of the most fascinating regions of the earth. It includes famous islands like Java, Borneo, Sumatra, New Guinea, the Philippines, and the hysterical. Island-volcano of Krakatao. Such freaks of nature as the giant " dragon " lizards of Komodo, the coloured lakes of Flores, the orangutans, the rafflesia (a flower over three feet in diameter), and the birds of paradise, are to be found nowhere else, The population of the islands ranges from such forms of primitive humanity as the Negritos, the Papuans, the Kubus, who seem only a few steps away in the evolutionary scale from the orangutan, to the super civilized Hindu-Javanese, who over six hundred years ago built monuments like Borobudur and Prambanan, jewels of Eastern art.
Through the centuries, civilization upon civilization from all directions has settled on the islands over the ancient megalithic cultures of the aborigines, until each island has developed an individual character, with a colorful culture, according to whether Chinese, Hindu, Malay, Polynesian, Mohammedan, or European influence has prevailed. Despite the mental isolation these differences have created, even the natives believe that the islands once formed a unified land. Raffles, in his History of lava, mentions a Javanese legend that says, " the continent was split into nine parts, but when three thousand rainy seasons will have elapsed, the Eastern Islands shall again be reunited and the power of the white man shall end."

One of the smallest, but perhaps the most extraordinary, of the islands, is the recently famous Bali - a cluster of high volcanoes, their craters studded with serene lakes set in dark forests filled with screaming monkeys. The long green slopes of the volcanoes, deeply furrowed by ravines washed out by rushing rivers full of rapids and waterfalls, drop steadily to the sea without forming lowlands. just eight degrees south of the Equator, Bali has over two thousand square miles of extravagantly fertile lands, most of which are beautifully cultivated. Only a narrow strait, hardly two miles across, separates Bali from Java; here again the idea that the two islands were once joined and then separated is sustained by the legend of the great Javanese king who was obliged to banish his good-for-nothing son to Bali, then united to Java by a very narrow isthmus. The king accompanied his son to the narrowest point of the tongue of land; when the young prince had disappeared from sight, to further emphasize the separation, he drew a line with his finger across the sands. The waters met and Bali became an island.

The dangers lurking in the waters around the island suggest a possible reason why Bali remained obscure and unconquered until 1908. Besides the strong tidal currents and the great depths of the straits, the coasts are little indented and are constantly exposed to the full force of the monsoons; where they are not bordered by dangerous coral banks, they rise from the sea in steep cliffs. Anchorage is thus out of the question except far out to sea, and the Dutch have bad to build an artificial port in Benoa to afford a berth for small vessels.


the beginning there was nothing, all was emptiness; there was only space. Before there were the heavens, there was no earth, and when there was no earth, there was no sky. . . . Through meditation, the world serpent Antaboga created the turtle Bedawang, on whom lie coiled two snakes as the foundation of the World. On the world turtle rests a lid, the Black Stone. There is no sun, there is no moon, there is no night in the cave below (the underside of the stone); this is the underworld, whose gods are the male Batara Kala and the female Setesuyara. There lives also the great serpent Basuki. . . . "

Kala created the light and Mother Earth, over which extends a layer of water. Over this again are consecutive domes or skies, high and low; one of mud (which dried to become the earth and the mountains); then the 'empty' middle sky (the atmosphere), where Iswara dwells; above this is the floating sky, the clouds, where Semara sits, the god of love. Beyond that follows the 'dark' (blue) sky with the sun and the moon, the home of Surya; this is why they are above the clouds. Next is the Perfumed Sky beautiful and full of rare flowers where live the bird Tiak, whose face is like a human face, the serpent Taksaka, who has legs and wings, and the awan snakes, the falling stars. Still higher in the sky gringsing wayang, the' flaming heaven of the ancestors! And over all the skies live the great gods who keep watch over the heavenly nymphs." Thus we have it that the island rests on the turtle, which floats on the ocean.

As the last Asiatic outpost to the east, Bali is interesting to the naturalist as an illustration of the theory of evolution. In 1869 Alfred Russell Wallace discovered that the fauna and flora typical of Asia end in Bali, while the earlier, more primitive biologi. cal forms found in Australia begin to appear in the neighboring island of Lombok, just east of Bali. Here the last tigers, cows,

This is from the Catur Yoga, a popular manuscript which translated for the sake of practice on the language. It consists of ideas on cosmogony, mythology, legends of the creation of man, etc., ending in a confused set of rules for crema tion and Balinese genealogies.


(Banteng), Monkeys, woodpeckers, pythons, etc., of Asia are not to be found farther east, and the cockatoos, parrots, and giant lizards predominate. Bali has the luxuriant vegetation of tropical Asia, while Lombok is and and thorny, like Australia. Wallace drew a line across the narrow straits between Bali and Lombok, the deepest waters in the archipelago, to divide Asia from Oceania.' Today, however, scientists are more inclined to regard the islands as a transitional region.

As in all countries near the Equator, Bali has an eternal summer with even, warm weather, high humidity, and a regular variation of winds, but the unbearable heat of lands similarly situated is greatly relieved by sea breezes that blow constantly over the descending slopes of the four volcanoes that form the island. The seasons are not distinguished as hot and cold, but as wet and dry. It is pleasantly cool and dry during our summer months, when the southeasterly winds blow, but in November the north-west monsoon ushers in six months of a rainy season so violent that it makes everything rot away, growing green whiskers of mould on shoes that are not shined every day. Then the atmosphere becomes hot and sticky and the torrential rains that lash the island cause landslides that often carry enormous trees into the deep ravines cut into the soft volcanic ash by the rivers, themselves red with earth washed from the mountain. Brooks and rivers swell into huge torrents (banjir) that rise unexpectedly with a deafening roar, in front of one's eyes, carrying away earth, plants, and occasional drowned pigs, destroying bridges and irrigation works. It is not unusual for a careless bather to be surprised by a sudden banjir and to be carried away in the muddy stream.

It is only natural that in a land of steep mountains, with such abundant rains, crossed in all directions by streams and great rivers, on a soil impregnated with volcanic ash, the earth should attain great richness and fertility. The burning tropical sun shining on the saturated earth produces a steaming, electric, hot. house atmosphere that gives birth to the dripping jungles that cover the slopes of the. Volcanoes with prehistoric tree-ferns, pandanus, and palms, strangled in a mesh of creepers of all sorts, their trunks smothered with orchids and alive with leeches, fantastic butterflies, birds, and screeching wild monkeys. This exuberance extends to the cultivated parts of the island, where-the rice fields that cover this over-populated land produce every year, and without great effort, two crops of the finest rice in the Indies.

Despite the enormous population, the lack of running water has kept the western part of the island uninhabited and wild. The few remaining tigers, and the deer, wild bog, crocodiles, great lizards, jungle cocks, etc., are the sole dwellers in this and hilly country covered with a dusty, low brush. Curiously enough, the Balinese regard this deserted land (Pulaki) as their place of origin. They explain in an old legend that a great city, which still exists, once flourished there, but has been made invisible to human eyes by Wahu Rahu, the greatest Brahmana from Java, who was forced to flee from the capital, Gelgel, to save his beautiful daughter from the king (by caste his inferior) and who found refuge in Pulaki by making the city invisible to the wicked king and his followers.

Another and region in contrast with the extravagant fertility of the island is the peninsula of limestone called Tafelhoek (Bukit to the Balinese) which rises to a height of 700 feet above the sea. This curious tableland, which shows every indication of having once been at the bottom of the ocean, is joined to the mainland by 2 low, narrow isthmus, but its sides rise almost vertically from the sea, and on the extremity of a long narrow rock, with a straight drop Of 250 feet, is the fantastically situated temple of Uluwatu, one of the holiest in Bali. This projecting rock is believed to be the ship, turned to stone, of Dewi Danu, the goddess of waters.


The mountains with their likes and rivers are the home of the gods and the sources of the land's fertility, and they stand for everything that is holy and healthy. To the Balinese everything that is high is good and powerful, so it is natural that the sea, lower than the lowest point of land, with the sharks and barracuda that infest the waters, and the deadly sea-snakes and poisonous fish that live among the treacherous coral reefs, should be considered as tenget, magically dangerous, the home of the evil spirits. Few Balinese know how to Swim and they rarely venture into the sea except to bathe near the shallow beaches, and then they go only a few feet from the shore. There are small settlements of fishermen who brave the malarial coasts of Kuta, Sanur, Benua, and Ketewel, but in general fishing is done on a small scale, either with casting-nets, or in beautiful prows shaped like fantastic

Elephant-fish " (gajah-mina) with elegant stylized trunks, and eyes to see at night. With their triangular sails apex downward, they go far out to sea at sunset to procure the giant sea-turtles required at the frequent banquets of this feast-loving people. Most Balinese seldom eat fish and remain essentially a rice-eating race. Their repugnance for the sea may be due to the same religious fear of the supernatural that prevents them from climbing to the summit of the great mountains. The Balinese feel that the heights are for the gods, the middle world for humans, and the depths and low points for the spirits of the underworld. They dread the unholy loneliness of the beaches haunted by demons and they believe that the coastline is under the influence of Jero Gede Mecaling, the Fanged Giant, who lives on the barren island of Nusa Penida. They are one of the rare island peoples in the world who turn their eyes not outward to the waters, but upward to the mountain tops.


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